Cuba’s youngest ever rum master tells us about the best bars and beaches on the island, his favourite cocktail and how he created Eminente – a label that celebrates his nation’s iconic past and tantalising future
16 November, 2022
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If
there’s one thing synonymous with Cuba – a captivating country on the cusp of a
new era – it’s rum. And no wonder: this is a nation rich in fertile
soil and blessed with a sublime tropical climate that is said to
produce the best sugar cane in the world. Since the mid-19th
century, when this raw ingredient was first spun into sipping gold
– a variety of rum whose delicacy set it apart from that found
elsewhere in the Caribbean – Cuban masters have been tinkering with
the art of producing it.
Today, it is a spirit that remains deeply ingrained in the
culture of this beguiling island – a place that definitely deserves
a spot on your must-visit list. But before you go, brush up on your
rum knowledge with an expert. Introducing César Martí, Cuba’s
youngest ever maestro ronero (master distiller), the rum wizard who
developed Eminente. This delicious new blend – rich and full-bodied
– was born from generations of expertise.
Join us as we explore César’s rum-tasting tips, his favourite
bars in Cuba and around the world and learn how, for a label so
young, Eminente has managed to earn the country’s coveted
Denominación de Origen Protegida (DOP) status.
Hazy cane fields, left, and a bottle of Eminente
rum.
I wasn’t drawn to it; I was lucky enough to be born into it,
right in the centre of Cuba, surrounded by sugar cane fields, to a
family devoted to this line of business. Having spent much of my
childhood at the sugar mill, I went on to study chemical
engineering at university, before training at the Ronera Central
(Central Distillery), where Eminente is made today. I was mentored
by the late Don José Pablo Navarro Campa, Cuba’s first maestro
ronero – a brilliant man who helped me become one of the island’s
only 10 (and the youngest) to hold this title.
I developed Eminente to be a rum dedicated to its heritage –
like Cuba itself – but with modern flair. It brings back the
distinctive light style born in the late-19th century, capturing
the soul and grandeur of what made it so special, while boasting
fresh aromas that add a contemporary complexity to the flavour. I’m
proud to say the result is a truly authentic expression of my
culture, and one of the reasons Eminente is among the few Cuban
rums to have won DOP status, an official badge of high
standard.
Its intense aroma is based on the ancient aguardiente
(firewater) that has been closely guarded for many years, inherited
from men who developed a unique blending and ageing process that
we, the new generations, have applied current science to. Its
central area of origin, right in the heart of Cuba, also sets it
apart. Eastern Cuban rums are smooth and fruity, perfect for
tasting, while the western ones – which are produced near Havana –
are dry and punchy, making them optimal for cocktails. The rums
from the middle of the island combine the best of both.
I suggest you first taste Eminente neat or on the rocks – in the
afternoon, surrounded by friends.
Harvesting the sugar cane, left, and a blood-orange Cuban
sunset.
My favourite has to be the old fashioned. It’s the cocktail that
best enhances the taste of the rum, since there are few other
ingredients (typically sugar, bitters and water). This simple blend
enables us to perceive all the notes of Eminente Reserva: vanilla,
tobacco, coffee and raspadura – the Spanish term for the taste of
whole sugar cane.
The sea. That’s my absolute favourite place to be. Head to
Varadero Beach – there’s no other view on the island like it. I
love sitting there, gazing at the velvety colours as the ocean
meets the sky.
You can’t visit Havana without taking a shot of rum at Sloppy Joe’s. It
was once the city’s most famed pre-revolutionary bar, a favourite
of American actors including John Wayne and Clark Gable, before
being nationalised and then closed in the 1960s. It reopened in
2013 to much fanfare, having been painstakingly restored to its
former glory. The other must-visit is El Floridita,
Hemingway’s most beloved bar, with a history that stretches back
more than 200 years.
A rum-filled feast, left, and a sun-dappled cave.
Topes de Collantes, a national park in the Escambray Mountains,
where you’ll find snaking waterfalls, emerald pools and exuberant
wildlife. It’s a Cuban icon, but many tourists don’t venture
there.
I really love CoCo at the Opera Garnier in Paris – it’s very Great
Gatsby, with splendid palm trees to sit beneath and cosy alcoves in
which to hide. When in the French capital, I frequent 1802, at the Monte Cristo Hotel – a dedicated rum bar
with more than 1,000 bottles and a stylish tasting room. In London,
the 1950s-Havana-themed La Rampa has a great Cuban atmosphere.
