Housed in a beautiful 13th-century listed building, this
cherished city sweet shop and patisserie is now run by the Arbeitskette
Foundation, which aims to integrate disadvantaged young people
(including participants in Switzerland’s migration programme) into
the hospitality industry. Widely considered to serve the best hot
chocolate in the city, in lavishly decorated drawing rooms, it’s a
treat on all levels.

For food lovers, hip Zuri-West is a must-visit, and a focal
point for local gastronomes is this beautiful covered market
nestled under the arches of the old city viaduct. When it’s
sub-zero outside, Markthalle im Viadukt offers a cheerful, cosy
refuge, and it’s easy to spend a few happy hours here. Start at the
fabulous épicerie Berg und Tal, which carefully curates the best Swiss
products from innovative and sustainable makers, then move on to
the wine bar, café, restaurant and international food stalls.

This gorgeous restaurant has contemporary art deco-influenced
interiors and a jaw-dropping view of Lake Zurich, plus a
Mediterranean-influenced menu that’s just as dreamy as the
surroundings. For four months over the winter, things get seriously
festive, too. You’lll find fondue served outdoors in vintage ski
gondolas overlooking the lively Christmas market in the
Sechseläutenplatz. To keep the magic alive after dinner, wander to
the lake and catch a burlesque show (plus drink) at the floating
Salon Theater Herzbaracke, which is moored here
for the first five months of the year.

Zurich has a thrilling bean-to-bar chocolate scene, and Taucherli, Garçoa and La Flor are all worth
seeking out. Want to go a little deeper? Book a factory tour with
the fabulous and passionate Laura Schälchli, founder of La Flor, at
the chocolatier’s small factory. La Flor’s production facilities
are in DasProvisorium, a co-working space specialising in
innovative and sustainable food projects. It’s worth keeping an eye
on the DasProvisorium calendar for workshops, tastings and talks.
Past events have included a vegan Cypriot pop-up, natural wine
tastings and coffee roastery tours.

Arguably Zurich’s most iconic restaurant and bar, Kronenhalle
was opened in 1924 by an art-loving couple, Hulda and Gottlieb
Zumsteg, and has been hosting writers, artists and bohemians ever
since – James Joyce, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Chagall
and Federico Fellini, to name but a few, in visiting. Our order?
Beef goulash with spaetzle, or perhaps the breaded veal escalope,
with the seriously rich chocolate mousse to finish. Some artists
repaid the Zumstegs’ generosity and good faith with works of art:
spot pieces by Joan Miró, Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee casually
adorning the walls.

To really test the inventiveness of a city’s culinary scene, we
believe in trying the vegetarian offerings. Naturally, Zurich
passes with flying colours, being home to one of the most thrilling
vegetarian dining scenes in Europe. For an unforgettable
tasting-menu experience, make a beeline for this District 4
diamond, which has been awarded a Michelin green star for
sustainability. The surprise tasting menu (diners just choose the
number of courses, then sit back and allow the dishes to arrive) is
the perfect introduction to both the calibre of Swiss produce and
the creativity of Zurich’s chefs.

Zurich’s answer to Harrods Food Hall is the grand basement at
Jelmoli, the city’s swishest department store. For travellers, this
is a treasure trove of Swiss and international delicacies, and we
could spend hours in the condiments section alone, or choosing
dates, or olive oil, or tasting slivers of Gouda at the cheese
counter. It’s the perfect place to do your Christmas shopping for
the food lovers in your life.

Like every true work-hard, play-hard city, Zurich has a lively
breakfast culture, whether that looks like friends meeting up over
croissants after a bracing dip in the lake, or a creative
brainstorming session fuelled by excellent coffee. Of all the
hotels facing the lake, it’s AMERON Zürich
Bellerive au Lac that has wooed the young professional crowd,
thanks to its plush art deco-inspired interiors and a menu that
mixes Swiss classics with ultra-healthy flourishes. For more of a
grab-and-go local brekkie, head to a branch of cult bakery John Baker, which
cultures its own yeast on the premises, offers the full spectrum of
savoury and sweet baked treats and also does superb coffee.