Switzerland’s first vegan doughnut shop, Mystifry was a pop-up
that proved such a hit that it became a stay-up. Now in a permanent
home in a picturesque historic street in Basel’s old town, the
bakery offers a rotating menu of six innovative flavours, all based
on a vegan brioche dough that is cut, fried and decorated by hand
in small batches. When we visited, peanut butter, lemon meringue
pie and s’mores were among flavours on offer, served alongside
locally roasted direct trade coffee. Don’t pause on this place –
once the sweet treats are sold, the shop closes for the day.

The city’s best-loved coffee house and bakery: head to the
Klybeckstrasse branch at any time of day to devour homemade
cheesecake with a cappuccino alongside a loyal following of
students, local writers, and remote workers. We love the lunch menu
of salads, soups and open sandwiches. Inside the café, you’ll find
a florist at work, as well as an organic cold-pressed oil store,
Oelist. A side venture of the Finkmüller founders, the carefully
curated collection of top-quality oils includes everything from
wild rosehip seed oil to organic hemp oil.

One of the most talked-about new districts in Kleinbasel is
Erlenmatt, a regenerated freight depot that is now an experiment in
sustainable urban development, with apartments, a school, a
residential care home and an abundance of green parkland sitting
alongside bars, restaurants and commercial spaces. Right in the
heart of things is this innovative new craft brewery, where the
kitchen serves beer-paired dishes until midnight, Tuesday to
Saturday. Expect seasonal creations such as lamb curry and
couscous, risotto Milanese with bone marrow, and braised red
cabbage with king oyster mushrooms. The space is modern, sleek and
sexy, and there’s even a rail of clothes by local designers and
some carefully sourced vintage pieces to peruse. Shopping before
scoffing? We’re there.

Even the classics come with a twist in Basel. Gasthof zum
Goldenen Sternen is Basel’s oldest inn, and enjoys a prime position
perched on the banks of the Rhine. It has a spectacular late-gothic
facade and magnificent baroque interiors, but we suggest skipping
the dining room and instead opting to hire the restaurant’s
fisherman’s hut – a stilted wooden boathouse right on the water.
Order the fish, which you cook yourself at the table, fondue-style,
and a bottle of chilled white chasselas, the classic Swiss wine to
accompany any fondue, to savour by candlelight. Dusk dining
experiences don’t come more memorable than this.

Perfectly situated next to one of the best swimming spots on the
Rhine, this local favourite specialises in regional, sophisticated
and creative Swiss sharing plates. From March to September, a
buvette (outdoor food stall) parks up outside the pretty townhouse
facade; in the winter months, cheese fondues are added to the menu
indoors. Jump in the river for a sun-soaked swim, then grab a seat
for a colourful, veg-laden lunch. Think: orecchiette pasta with
green asparagus, tomatoes and spinach, tender trout, and a
watermelon, cucumber and bulgur wheat salad.

Across the Rhine from the vast Markthalle covered food market, Klara is a
laid-back food court with various stalls in the more relaxed and
bohemian side of Basel, Kleinbasel. There are nine international
kitchens here, compared to the Markthalle’s 40, plus a bar serving
local craft beers and kombuchas. La Taqueria’s tacos al pastor have
a cult following, and at AfroLicious, founder Meaza serves
Ethiopian and Senegalese favourites including injera sourdough
pancakes and maffe peanut stew.