We take a walk along Hong Kong’s neon-lit waterfront with Roganic executive chef and ex-Great British Menu contestant Oli Marlow, stopping for yakitori, wonton soup and some sublime sunset views along the way.
02 February, 2022
Having
cut his teeth in the kitchen under the watchful eye of
Simon Rogan (of L’Enclume, Rogan & Co and Roganic fame), Oli
Marlow has one of the most sparkling culinary CVs we’ve ever set
eyes on. To an all-star line-up that includes Chewton
Glen, The Fat Duck,
Eleven Madison
Park and Maaemo, the
31-year-old adds positions as executive chef at Aulis, London – an eight-seater
chef’s table experience – Aulis, Hong Kong and
Roganic, Hong Kong, which
won its first Michelin star in January 2021, as well as
Hong-Kong-based bakery-come-natural wine bar The Baker and The
Bottleman.
Dividing his time between the UK and Hong Kong, Marlow focuses
on simple and seasonal British produce underpinned by unique
flavour combinations. Here, he talks us through the best of Hong
Kong, from how to spend the perfect day in the city and where to
snap up the best street food, to his favourite haunt for wonton
soup.
Intense, rewarding and fun.
Between September and December, when the weather is lovely – not
too humid – and there’s loads going on in the city.
I’d get the No.40 bus to Repulse Bay and drink Aperol spritz on
the beach all day, then head back central for yakitori – a
traditional snack of grilled chicken on a skewer – in the
evening.
Maxime Gilbert and the team behind Écriture have just opened a
rooftop bar called Plume.
The view of the skyline from its terrace is breathtaking.
Yardbird is a
fantastic Japanese izakaya-style restaurant along the harbour from
Roganic. It has great food, great beer and a fun, lively
atmosphere. It’s good to go with a big group of friends so you can
try everything.
When I’m feeling a little worse for wear, a bowl of wonton soup
is the best thing. Mak Siu Kee is a
traditional wonton noodle soup joint near Causeway Bay. Expect
generous portions of rich broth laced with chewy noodles and
bursting with flavourful wontons.
Halfway
Coffee is a great spot. The top-notch coffee is served in
beautiful vintage porcelain cups.
Tate Dining Room comes to
mind immediately. Vicky Lau’s menu is the perfect blend of French
and Chinese cuisine, and the pastel-pink interiors are stunning.
The wine flight, which is mostly French, makes the perfect
accompaniment.
In Causeway Bay, where our restaurants are based, you can get
roasted chestnuts. They’re done in a wok with charcoal, and the
smell always makes me think of Christmas back home.
Egg tarts are absolutely delicious. They’re filled with rich
custard, a bit like a Portuguese pasteis de nata, and you can find
them in bakeries on almost every street corner.
The Dried Seafood Market on Des Voeux Road West. You’ll find
old-school vendors selling dried fish and abalone. It’s pungent, to
say the least, but well worth a visit.
Take the tram up to Victoria Peak. It’s the highest point in
Hong Kong and the views are something you don’t want to miss.
Lamma Island is a great one for getting out of town for the day.
It’s just a 25-minute ferry ride from the city, with brilliant
views and some great seafood joints along the waterfront.
Shorts, English snacks and a couple of practical outfits. I
travel very light!
