We

We
closed our eyes and turned our faces towards the sun, the
scent of sunscreen and salt wafting through the air. We could have
been anywhere in the world. A remote
Greek island, somewhere on the West Coast or perhaps a sleepy
Italian fishing village. Just as our imaginations began to take
over, we heard: “Shall we go inside for a cuppa, Angela?” We turned
around to see a stout old woman in a string vest beckoning her
friend. Angela, it seemed, had been enjoying the sunshine a little
too much and her arms, chest and face had turned a worrying shade
of magenta. They packed up their stripy umbrella and plucked two
British flags from the sand, waddling up towards a white hut
selling fish and chips, pizza and kebabs. We were not in Greece,

California or Italy. We were in Margate in Kent, on one of the
hottest days of the year.

While Margate may have a little way to go before it becomes “the
new Brighton“,
it’s hard to ignore its growing appeal. Londoners have been
flocking to this town of late, lured by low house prices and short
commute from the capital. They have brought with them speciality
coffee, craft beer and ‘locavore’ (eating locally sourced produce)
dining. In the folds of the old town there is a wealth of curiosity
shops, Scandi-style homeware stores and vibrant little cafes
flanked by old, peeling pubs. With the Turner Contemporary gallery
at its heart, Margate’s art scene is flourishing (Tracey Emin grew
up here) with independent galleries hosting a year-round calendar
of exhibitions. Seafood is everywhere, from pastel-coloured oyster
bars to hip restaurants serving local catches with natural wine.
But the old Margate of scruffy caffs, boarded-up shop fronts and
empty, flashing games arcades lives on.

It is the England of photographer Martin Parr’s vision – one of
dripping ice cream, dodgy tattoos, sagging sun chairs, battered cod
and fading amusement rides. The sweeping beach is overlooked by
concrete tower blocks and ferris wheels. And the sunsets, which JMW
Turner called the most beautiful in world, throw dusky pink light
over the jetty and turn the sea dark blue. With more outsiders than
ever jumping at the chance to live here, Margate continues to
change and grow. But its old, gritty spirit is made of tougher
stuff. With the two sides of this seaside town at play, there has
never been a better time to visit.