The archipelago’s headline island – as well as the most
accessible – Sāo Miguel is rippled with peaks, between which lie so
many tropical jungles, rolling plains, epic waterfalls and hot
springs that it’s earned the moniker of “the green island”. There’s
a palpable energy here; waves crash against the shore while inland
the capital, Ponta Delgada, is a city that sings with things to do,
see and eat.

TO STAY

On the island’s northern coast, Pico do Refúgio is a heady cocktail of nature,
art and contemporary design. It stands out as a hub of creativity
at the heart of the slow-living locales of Rabo de Peixe and
Ribeira Grande. It’s minimalist lofts and apartments set in former
tea-plantation buildings are prime for those seeking a boutique,
design-forward stay.

Larger party? There are several houses that can be rented out in
their entirety. Try Villa Várzea, a bright, off-the-beaten-path
mansion a 10-minute drive from the Sete Cidades lagoon and the
thermal waters of Ferraria; or the Casa dos Barcos on the shores of the Lagoa das
Furnas.

For a stay that strikes the balance between sustainability and
luxury, try Solar Branco Eco Estate, a mere 10-minute drive from
Ponta Delgada. Powered by solar panels (this is the sunny Azores,
after all), the century-old Portuguese
mansion-turned-boutique-hotel ticks the boxes for producing zero
food waste and banning single-use plastics – so you can polish your
eco halo as you avail of its Azorean gin-tasting sessions, guided
forest bathing, tile-painting classes and such. This is a place to
switch off your phone and inhale a few lungfuls of the
citrus-tinged ocean breeze.

TO EAT AND DRINK

This is a place fuelled by deliciously cheap petiscos
(Portuguese tapas) and comparably good plonk. In Ponta Delgada, try
A
Tasca – the island’s most popular restaurant – for
just-off-the-boat tuna steak, smoked black pudding and pineapple
cake; Taberna Açor for cured meats; or the no-fuss Mané
Cigano where plates are piled high with grilled-to-perfection
sardines. For a more gourmet spin on Azorean cuisine, try Tasquinha Vieira behind the Teatro Micaelense.

Seafood aside, beef, beef and more beef is the raison d’être of
many of the Azores’ menus, thanks to the flocks of cows that graze
happily across the islands’ wild pastures – grass-fed is the norm
here. You’ll find this echoed in the menu at Associação
Agrícola de São Miguel, where there are nine varieties of beef
to choose from – we recommend opting for the signature Bife à
Associação steak. Alternatively, the garlicky Bife à Alcides from
Alcides
restaurant is brilliant too. While vegetarian and vegan options are
few, Rotas da Ilha Verde is a hippy hotspot for plant-based
fare – the aubergine cannelloni is very good.

A 40-minute drive east along the coast – factor in time for
stop-offs in shoreside boltholes such as São Roque, Lagoa and
Caloura – you’ll reach the town of Furnas, famed for “cozido das
furnas”, a traditional stew baked in the earth from the heat of the
volcano. Side step any restaurants when you see tour buses;
O Miroma and Vale das Furnas are local
favourites.

TO DO

The twin lakes of Lagoa das Sete Cidades – one blue and one
green – lie together in the crater of a dormant volcano; hike the
12km circuit around the lakes, with several routes down to the
water’s edge. Legend has it that the lakes were formed by the tears
of a shepherd and a princess who were forbidden to love each
other.

On a clear day, you can see the entire island from the top of
the Serra da Água and the striking Lagoa do Fogo (Lake of Fire).
The viewpoints of Ponta da Madrugada, Boca do Inferno and Vista do
Rei provide equally impressive views. Bathe in the clay-brown
thermal pool at Parque Terra Nostra and don’t miss the ruins of
Monte Palace Hotel, the Aqueduct, the Caldeira Velha, the Ponta do
Canário, the Ponta da Ferraria and the Portas da Cidade.

Terceira is Portuguese for “third”, and fittingly this is the
Azores’ third largest island while it was also the third to be
populated during the Portuguese Age of Discovery.

In the years since, Terceira has become an island of
celebration, with many festivals, carnivals and religious tributes
taking place throughout each season. The locals say they spend 10
months of the year celebrating, so wander the street and let the
party guide you. Angra do Heroísmo, the capital of the island, will
stay etched in your mind long after your departure.

TO STAY

Hotel do Caracol and Casa da
Amoreira are both good options. The former is surrounded by
Monte Brazil, overlooking the Bay of Silveira. The latter offers
simple accommodations with views of volcanic rock formations and
the islands of Pico and São Jorg.

The rooms at Quinta do Martelo could be straight of a
Pinterest board, thanks to the rural-chic decor. Its various
accommodation options are serviced by a restaurant, organic food
shop and craft workshops.

TO EAT AND DRINK

The traditional dish of Terceira is Alcatra, meaning “piece” in
Arabic. It’s a rich medley of Azores beef, red wine, onions and
spices that slowly simmers in large red clay pots. Every family and
restaurant has their own take on the recipe – we recommend getting
your fill in Caneta in the northern enclave of Altares or at the
family-run Ti Choa, in the pretty little shoreside municipality
of Serreta. While you’re here, try the doce de vinagre, a sweet,
vinegar-based custard traditional in mainland Portugal’s Montijo
district.

For a seafood-forward menu, try Boca Negra in Porto Judeu (octopus is the signature
dish here) or Beira-Mar offering a menu of cracas (barnacles)
and grilled fish followed by sweet, sticky pudding.

TO DO

To experience Azorean culture beyond the hubbub of Sāo Miguel,
make a beeline for Angra do Heroísmo, where cobbled streets are
lined with historic buildings reminiscent of Angra’s 18th-century
golden age – the Igreja da Misericordia (“the Church of Mercy”) is
a particularly beautiful, very blue, focal point.

Beyond the island’s capital, a volcanic landscape is
criss-crossed with ancient lava flows and cave systems – the most
famous being Algar do Cavo (“Cavern of Coal”), a 3,000-year-old
volcanic chimney laced with stairs and walkways. Laurisilva and
juniper forests set a lush scene for nature-rich hikes, but for the
best views head to Serra do Cume, a green expanse where cows graze
and photographers gather to survey the vast lands that stretch for
miles. Later, take in the sights of Lagoa das Patas and Vitoria
Beach before winding down in the natural pools of Biscoitos.

Wearing a necklace of wispy clouds, the mountain of Pico – a
2,350m-tall stratovolcano – rises over centuries-old vineyards and
black-sand beaches, lending a mystical intensity to the island.

TO STAY

For larger groups, Casas do
Sal is a great choice, as is Pocinho Bay, a six-bedroom villa fringed by
vineyards. Smaller parties should opt for Casinha da Júlia,
a bolthole built in 1900. The historic house is reasonably priced
and nestled at an ideal juncture between the sea and the
mountains.

TO DO

A climb up Mount Pico will take a few hours but the view from
the summit is well worth the exertion. If volcanic landscapes are
your thing, head north to the unusual lava formations of the Arcos
do Cachorro, where the coastline is perforated with grottoes,
tunnels and arches.

Pico’s vineyards and whale-spotting rides are best experienced
on guided tours, but dotted across the island are
plenty of lagoons – Lagoas Capitão, Peixinho, Rosada and Paul –
which can be enjoyed for free, so keep your swimming gear in the
car.

TO EAT AND DRINK

In Madalena, try the Cella Bar, an architecturally impressive
tapas-and-wine joint dubbed as one of the most beautiful in
Portugal. For dinner, Ancoradouro‘s menu is typical of the region;
limpets and grilled octopus are the dishes to order. Caffe 5
Cinq is the go-to if for vegetarian options and healthy
fare.

The protected Nature Park of Faial spreads across almost 20 per
cent of the island, earning it the European Commission’s EDEN award
for sustainability. It’s in this scattered reserve that you’ll find
the Faial’s (and indeed the whole archipelago’s) natural
showstoppers: the remnants of two submerged volcanic craters,
Capelinhos and Caldeira. Capelinhos is still active and last
stirred in 1958. Caldeira is the crater of a now extinct volcano,
the activity of which resulted in the genesis of the island.

TO STAY

Faial is an island you can visit in just one day, with ferries
to Pico at the end of the day. If you’d prefer to sleep over, stay
at Casas d’Arramada in the small, coastal village
of Ribeira Funda or Pousada Forte da Horta, a 16th-century fortress
that gazes across Horta Bay to neighbouring Pico Island.

For a chic, self-catered stay, try the minimalist, pine-clad
Porto Pim Bay apartments – bicycles and kayaks
are free to borrow, ideal for exploring Horta Beach and beyond.
Casas do Capelo in Varadouro also offers a
range of great rental properties.

TO EAT AND DRINK

A packed lunch is probably best for a day of exploring, but plan
well and you can time your pick-me-up at the quirky, family-run
CASA where
market-fresh, organic, “slow food” (including a decent amount of
veggie options) is served in the company of a few cats.

Come evening, Genuíno is likely to hit the spot – order tuna,
octopus and caldeirada (fish stew) to share while looking out
across the bay from which they were plucked. It’s a pint-sized spot
and tables fill up fast – if that’s the case, Taberna de
Pim opposite is a close second best. For a more contemporary
dining affair, Praya
Restaurante on Praia do Almoxarife, where floor-to-ceiling
windows frame Pico Mountain hugged by clouds and the salted
bacalhau á brás is spot on. A meal here is best followed by a
saunter along the sea wall that runs the entire length of the
beach.

It’s said that if you visit Horta and don’t visit the famous
Peter’s
Café Sport, then you’ve not really been to Horta at all. For
those who sail the Atlantic, this place is an institution – like
Harry’s Bar to Venice or Raffles to Singapore. Peter’s bright-blue
facade, orange sign and sun-bleached flags have welcomed sailors
for more than 100 years. Unsurprisingly, gin is the go-to tipple
here – a bottle of the golden Peter’s Gin do Mar makes a great
souvenir too.

TO DO

Peter’s Café Sport team know about thing or two about the
surrounding area – take advantage of its experiences which cover “water” (kayak tours,
snorkelling and coastal diving), “land” (bike rides and shearwater
watching) and “self-awareness” (read: meditating on mountains).

The island is best explored by car or foot, stopping and
starting as nature (or your driver, tour guide or map) dictates.

Faial’s Nature Park is dotted with belvederes and lookout
points, prime for taking in the island’s unique topography and
rare, often endemic, wildlife. The Capelinhos Volcano and the
Caldera are the ones you want for the photo album, but it’s well
worth venturing to the Forest Park of Cabouco, Ribeira das Cabras
and Morro de Castelo Branco. Don’t miss the beaches, too – namely
Almoxarife, Norte and Porto Pim. The Varadouro Natural Poolsimpress
even the most surly vacationer.

Well-signposted pathways thread across Faial. We recommend the
relatively easy climb up Monte da Guia; from the summit you’ll gaze
across Horta Bay – ranked among the world’s most beautiful bays and
the stage for many international regattas – to Porto Pim Beach on
the opposite side.

Great acres of flatland that reaches out into the sea, known as
fajãs, are the visual identity of São Jorge. Enjoy the Azorean
cheese and preserves for which the island is known and snap a
panoramic picture of neighbouring Pico.

TO STAY

Casa da Lagoa promises a peaceful sleep in
simple surroundings. Homely touches add to its charming and
laid-back style. The Cantinho das Buganvílias (“Bougainvillea’s
Corner”) is a rustic take on the modern aparthotel, while the
Casa da Caldeira puts visitors at the heart of
the island’s nature reserve in Santo Cristo.

TO EAT AND DRINK

Enjoy a leisurely lunch at Conserveira
de Santa Catarina and pick up some edible souvenirs to take
home. For dinner with a view, take the steep drive south to Fajã
das Almas. It’s a hilly journey not for the meek, but you’ll be
rewarded with some of the island’s freshest seafood (order the
limpets) with a side of oceanfront vistas. Amilcar in Fajã do
Ouvidor comes in a close second best in the seafood-and-sea-views
stakes.

TO DO

Scattered around the island are various viewpoints or “ponta”
where you can stop the car and take in the views. Look out for
Ponta Ruiva, Ponta dos Rosais and Pico da Esperança. If you’ve got
time to spare, check out the fajãs of the Ouvidor, Almas and Cubres
and the eco-reserve of Caldeira do Santo Cristo.

The most southerly of the Azores, Santa Maria is also the
archipelago’s sunniest isle where brilliant beaches draw a happy
crowd of locals from other islands. Christopher Coloumbus famously
came ashore here on his return voyage from “discovering” the
Americas, stopping by the chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Anjos for
mass.

TO STAY

Opened in 2016, Charming Blue is the best boutique hotel in
Vila do Porto and a fantastic springboard for exploring the island.
Let the concierge arrange a day’s bike hire or watersports
activities before returning to the hotel’s Mesa d’Oito restaurant
for dinner. For a quieter stay, plump for the secluded, sea-view
house of Caso do Norte. Sleeps two.

TO EAT AND DRINK

Central Pub probably won’t bowl you over in the
gastronomic stakes, but this place (akin to a British boozer) has
been a hub for locals and visitors in Vila do Porto for more than
half a century and has a fantastic atmosphere. Wines and sweet
liqueurs such as aguardente, licor de amor, vinho abafado and vinho
abafadinho are produced on the island – do try to order a glass or
two that are sold alongside the pizza here.

For a more traditional Santa Maria fare, walk five minutes up
the road Pipas Churrasqueira where a menu of grilled meat and
seafood gives way to a desert of the island’s native melon. Petite,
sweet and delicious.

TO DO

Santa Maria is famed for its handcrafted textiles – head to the
small but interesting Santa María Ethnographic Museum in Santo
Espirito to learn about the trade. This place doubles up as an
artisanal cooperative, so pick up a blanket, patchwork quilt or
linen tablecloth to take home.

Vila do Porto is the island’s capital, though it looks more akin
to a village. Enter the old city along the Dr Manuel Monteiro Velho
Arruda where pavements are decorated with motifs of fishes and
shells, and churches are plenty – it’s best experienced in August
when retellings of folklore, music and fairs celebrate Assunção,
patron saint of the island. Later, head up to the Miradouro do
Porto Overlook in Largo Sousa e Silva to admire views over the sea
and city.

For something a little quieter and under-the-radar, visit São
Lourenço, a beautiful village in which white houses and terraced
vineyards tumble down into a bay. To get out into nature, head
towards Santa Bárbara, where the lush woodland of Fontinhas Forest
Park offers a cool canopy during sunny hikes and Pico Alto marks
the highest point on Santa María.

Peaceful, rural charm is the vibe of this small island which,
together with Corvo and Flores, is a protected Unesco Biosphere
Reserve. Villages are small, people are few, buildings are
traditional and roads are quiet. If you want to slip into a gentle
pace of life, this is the island for you.

TO STAY

With a tagline of “biosphere island hotel”, the Graciosa
Resort is the design-hotel of the Azores – rooms and suites are
available, but opt for one of the volcanic-stone-clad, stand-alone
villas if your budget allows.

TO EAT AND DRINK

Quinta das Grotas is without doubt the island’s best restaurant.
Set in a stone-built house in Guadalupe, it serves Graciosa
specialities alongside it’s signature dishes of seafood cooked on
roof tiles. For another fix of seafood and sea views, the Dolphin
Snack Bar in Carapacho, on the sunny southern side of the island is
a good shout – a 30-minute walk to the Ponta da Restinga viewpoint
is a lovely way to end a meal here.

TO DO

Despite Graciosa’s quiet reputation, its past is one
characterised by violent volcanic activity. Visit the Furna do
Enxofre, an enormous lava cave stretching 200m wide, where an
80-year-old stone spiral staircase leads to a vaulted cave studded
with volcanic prisms and a subterranean sulphurous lake – perhaps
one of the Azores’ most outstanding geological phenomena.

To visit Flores is to escape the world. For us, it’s the Azores’
most beautiful pocket, where a flourishing landscape that rises and
falls with craters is cut by crashing waterfalls, cliffs thrashed
by the sea and secluded whitewashed fishing villages. Unlike the
Azores’ other islands, volcanic activity is non-existent here – all
the caldera are extinct.

TO STAY

The small and wonderfully welcoming hamlet of Faja Grande is the
most westerly village in Europe and about as far removed from
modern-day stresses as one could hope. Here, book a stay in the
beautifully rustic Aldeia da Cuada – all raw woods and local
textiles – and the starting point for some great hiking routes.
Larger groups should book out the entire Moinho da Cascata, where a terrace overlooks
the sea and a waterfall tumbles down a cliff in the distance.

TO EAT AND DRINK

Perched on the western shore in Faja Grande, Maresia Restaurante
is among Flores’ more expensive restaurants, but serves up
respectfully cooked market-fresh produce picked from hand-scrawled
menus.

It’s a decent climb to reach the hilltop restaurant of Pôr-do-Sol, but you’ll be rewarded with
fantastic homemade blood sausage, fried seaweed cakes and pork stew
– best enjoyed as the sun makes its curtain call beyond the
Atlantic.

TO DO

Hiking. Hiking. Hiking. This island is thick with subtropical
flora (including a spectacular smattering of wild hydrangea) that
conceals beautiful waterfalls. The best way to experience it is by
foot – en route keep your eye out for local handicraft that include
flower arrangements made from fish scales.

Strung on the archipelago’s north west, Corvo is the Azores’
smallest island, covering just seven square miles. Studded with the
collapsed remains of caldera formed some 430,000 years ago, its
landscape – a biosphere reserve – is rich with flora and fauna.
Vila do Corvo is the hub of human activity here, once a beacon for
ships sailing the trade winds between Portugal and Brazil. Today,
with a population that lingers under 500, it’s a much quieter
affair.

TO STAY

Accommodation options are limited on Corvo, with just one
official hotel: the Comodoro Guest House, though there are several basic
guest houses and B&Bs too. Try The
Pirate’s Nest or Joe & Vera’s Vintage Palace.

TO EAT AND DRINK

Corvo has a roll call of local dishes including grilled beans,
seaweed pies and liver sauce, so if you see these on restaurant
menus, give them a shot. We recommend pulling up a seat in Caldeirão Restaurante & Pastelaria.

Corvo’s nightlife scene revolves around the BBC Lounge
(meaning “Bar dos Bombeiros do Corvo” or “Corvo’s Fireman’s Bar”).
Expect dancing, live music, karaoke and quizzes, as well as
francesinhas – Porto’s signature sandwich – to keep the party
going.

TO DO

Every autumn, birds migrating from the Americas – including
several endemic species – make a pitstop on the island, making this
prime territory for twitchers. There are several expert-led
birdwatching packages available if you fancy
giving it a whirl.