Looking for the lowdown on Switzerland’s Italian-speaking south? From spectacular lakeside stays to slow food worth savouring, here’s your complete guide to exploring the canton of Ticino
11 April, 2023
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Calling
all food-obsessed travellers: you need to get down to
Ticino. Between jagged alpine peaks and
shimmering, palm-fringed lakes that look positively Mediterranean,
this Swiss canton packs in fertile valleys, chestnut forests and
steeply terraced vineyards. Radically different from the rest of
the country, Ticino occupies the sun-kissed southern foothills of
the mountains, an Italian-speaking region that in its cuisine,
architecture, culture and spirit resembles Milan more than Zurich.
Here’s how to get straight to the heart of this enigmatic
destination. Spoiler: it’s through your stomach.
hotel
Craving supreme luxury and otherworldly serenity? Make a beeline
for this majestic 150-hectare estate, home to one of Switzerland’s
finest hotels, with its own vegetable farm, fruit orchard, vineyard
and even Europe’s northernmost rice plantation, for the true
farm-to-table experience. If you can’t make it for a stay or a
memorable meal at one of the hotel’s restaurants, you’ll find all
sorts of regional treats in the estate’s farm shop, Terreni
alla Maggia.
hotel
In the heart of the Verzasca Valley, this unique hotel in the
historic village of Corippo offers rooms in individual stone
cottages, and a tavern serving southern alpine cuisine made from
locally sourced produce. If you’re travelling car-free, it’s
reachable by bus, and, as with all Ticino hotels, guests are issued
with a Ticino Ticket on arrival, offering free public transport and
discounts on attractions.
hotel
The lakeside resort towns of Locarno and Ascona are not short of
stylish stays, but this beautiful boutique property is perhaps the
coolest. Tucked away on a picturesque street moments from Ascona’s
famed piazza on Lake Maggiore, the art-filled rooms (most with
private terraces or balconies overlooking the water) draw on sleek
Italian modernism, with playful touches such as bold statement
wallpaper.
restaurant
Locarno’s much-loved Hotel Belvedere occupies a sunny slope
overlooking the town and lake, and the hotel’s restaurant, La
Fontana, is a favourite among local gourmands. Food is light,
regional and sustainable, showcasing local produce such as the
polenta, chestnuts and mushrooms that have kept this alpine region
well fed for centuries. Diners can also expect contemporary takes
on Mediterranean classics, like pumpkin carpaccio and aubergine
tartare.
restaurant
Adjacent to Locarno’s lovely saltwater thermal baths, this
linear, modern restaurant has a co-working space, a large terrace,
unbeatable views of Lake Maggiore, and somehow manages to serve
both the best pizza and the best sushi in town, alongside more
sophisticated Mediterranean dishes.
restaurant
When you’ve had your fill of Michelin-starred fare (Ticino has
eight starred restaurants, making it one of the regions with the
highest concentration per population density in Europe), hunt down
a grotto in which to experience a unique part of this canton’s
culinary heritage. Most grotti used to be stone storage pantries
for cheese, cold meats and wine; today, they’re informal taverns,
serving classic Swiss dishes alongside carafes of local red and
white merlot. Grottino Ticinese is one of the most traditional.
thingstodo
Hiking and biking are a major draw in Ticino, with over 4,000km
of trails around the city to explore. And when you’re ready to
soothe your aching muscles, this gleaming modern saltwater spa
overlooking Lake Maggiore is a real treat, with beautifully
designed multi-tiered baths, and an inviting bistro with healthy
snacks.
thingstodo
This beautiful, 52km rail journey is a must, and if you can time
your trip to take place on a Sunday, there’s the chance to ride a
historic 1963-made electric train with two wagons dating back to
1923. It’s as atmospheric as train rides come, starting with a
send-off of live accordion music, traditional to the area. Feeling
peckish? Vendors selling roast chestnuts and other local
specialities populate the old depot before the Sunday departure, so
snacks can be bought before you board.
thingstodo
One of Ticino’s most iconic sights is the double-arched
Romanesque stone bridge Ponte dei Salti, crossing the Verzasca
river in Lavertezzo. In the warmer months, bathers flock to these
absurdly beautiful rock pools and channels; even in winter, we’d
brave a quick dip, followed by a hearty meal back in Locarno, just
a 15-minute drive away. Osteria Borghese is a local institution.
Fly from London airports to Zurich Airport with SWISS.
From the airport, Locarno is a three-hour train journey with Swiss
Federal Railways.
Get unlimited travel on public transport across the canton with
the Ticino Ticket, a free digital travel pass available to
visitors staying overnight in hotels, youth hostels and campsites
in the region.
Pick up more tips on exploring the Ticino region at myswitzerland.com.
